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Fender®,, Stratocaster® and Strat®, Jazzmaster®, Jaguar® and Mustang® are registered trademarks of Fender Musical Instruments Corporation and Axesrus® has no affiliation with FMIC

Bode Plots

	Swap Graphs?
	Pickup #1 Single Coil Humbucker Telecaster P90 Offets Bass Other Texas Blues (Bridge) Texas Blues (Neck + Middle)	Pickup #2 Humbucker Single Coil Classic 50s Bourbon CityXDevestatorEtherealHereticHot IronModel 24True 50s

Bode plots are one of my “things” when it comes to pickups – I’m a huge believer that “guitars sound like guitar”, and that there is FAR too much expectation placed on pickups “to be different”, with a real belief that these things are very “black and white/good and bad/one thing or the other” and, honestly? Its not true!

Really, there isn’t a massive amount of tonal difference between, say, an Axesrus late 60s and an Axesrus Mid 50s single coil. Sure, if we were to compare a very high output humbucker like the Hot Iron and a very traditional single coil, the differences start increase, but at no point does the guitar start sounding like anything other then a guitar! Think of them as shades of grey, and you wont go far wrong.

So, when shopping pickups? And being confronted with a wall of numbers, hugely flowery write ups, sound clips that don’t tell you a great deal – Bode plots are a fantastic way to say “these 2 are similar, this ones a bit more of this, that ones a little more that” – it might not come through in the recordings, it might not be evident in the numbers, you can guarantee the write ups are going to over egg the pudding – but the bode plot? She cannot lie!

So, a quick crash course in reading bode plots?

The higher the peaks frequency (in kHz) the brighter the pickup.

The higher the peaks voltage (in dBU), the more aggressive its going to be in that register.
The ”wider” the lead in and lead out immediately around the peak (the Q factor) the smoother the pickup is going to be. The narrower, the more focused and snappy it will be.

And – a handy hint – view the resonant peak and Q factor in relation to the  lower frequencies (0-2kHz) – a pickup producing 10dbU at 1kHz, and 30dbU at a resonant peak of 5kHz might seem bright in graph form, but its all relative – its bright, but its also very bass rich, so it wont seem that bright in reality)

Sets vs. Singles

Right then – I’ll concede that this is a bit confusing, but, there is some logic to it – its just a little bit involved, so this is worth a read.

So, right off the bat, when we speak about “a matched set” – in this instance, that means 2 pickups that are "specific positions" They’re all going spicy 6.5K bridge, and then a slightly cooler, but, frankly, quite peppery neck at 6.2K, Alnico 5. Simple!

Single and ready to mingle

I do, secretly, like making up little nonsense puns for the headers of these write ups, but this ones quite apt!

If your buying a single pickup, that’s fantastic, I’m all for mixing and matching different pickups together to really personalise a guitar and get it working for you – so, rather then brow beat anyone who dare suggest putting an Axesrus pickup next to a Seymour Duncan or a DiMarzio – how about I actually tell you how to ensure that your going to match the things up properly?
Wind Direction

So, with our single coils – as “standard” (aka, “Not Reverse Wound”) – all models are wound clockwise, South polarity.

And all reverse wound pickups, are counter clockwise, north polarity.

And what that means is, if you hold the pickup in the palm of your hand, with the bottom fibre board down, with the hookup wires facing you, the “start” of the coil (the black wire!) is on the LEFT (and the white wire, is on the right)

That, is clockwise wind! Easy right.

If you’ve got a middle pickup that’s the opposite of that (black on the right, white or yellow on the left), that means your middles reverse wound (in relation to an Axesrus pickup) – but remember, not everyone follows the same standard (even Fender® have been known to wander!) so it’s worth checking.

Polarity
Polarity is a little more complicated/confusing so, to spell it out as straight forward as I can. Our standard is South Top (reverse would be North Top)

Again, not everyone follows the same standard, so its worth checking.

The problem is – when you check, that’s what’ll confuse the life out of you, so heres the way to do it.

1. Get yourself a magnetic compass, identify which is the north needle (and which is the south).
2. Hold the compass so the edge is facing the top of the poles of the pickup – either the North or south needle will point directly at the pole.

If it NORTH needle is pointing towards the pole, that means the pole is SOUTH top (confusing right? North literally means south (weirdly, the earths north pole? That’s south polarity too!)

Alternatively, you can download a pole checker on your smart phone – it’s a free download. If that says “north” when you offer it up to a magnets pole, that’s true – North = North!

Once you know the polarity of your other pickups, your going to know what you need from your new one.

Remember, we wind these to our standard (and it’s a very widely used standard outside of Axesrus too) but, if you do find yourself needing a pickup that’s clockwise wound, north polarity, or something way out – just give us a ring, and we can do it, no problems at all.

Does Pole staggering matter?

This ones one those things that crops up every so often, and i dont think anyone really has a straight answer, so i figured i'd try and explain what pole staggering is, and whilst i probably cant say "this is better then that!", atleast your slightly better informed.

Why does it exist?

So, traditionally? a single coil pickup comes with staggered poles - specifically, the E and A poles (17.5mm long poles) are shorter then the D ang G poles (18mm) , the B pole (16.5mm) is shorter again, and the high E (17mm) is slightly higher. Its very common, and is an idea thats been around since the very first Stratocaster, and exists purely to "balance" the strings, because the wound strings are "quieter" then the unwound (because they constain less steel within those nickel wraps essentially) and with the 7 1/4" radius necks of the 50s, the strings sat further away from the pickup compared to more modern, flatter radius' necks.(old guitars had worse actions, basically)

Interestingly, on the very first Strat single coil models, the staggering was different, with a 17.5mm being used on the G string, which caused the wound Gs of the time to be slightly too quiet, and that was phased out in 1956 for the "normal" staggering we see pretty much everywhere nowadays.

However - that change in 56, is interesting - because, really, it was done to account for wound G strings... which are a bit of a rarity nowadays (with "unwound Gs" becoming common in the 70s), so why has the idea of staggering not evolved further?

Now, this is going to get a little more into the psychology of guitars rather then the science of pickups, and i dont have all the answers on this front, but if we take this information with a pinch of salt, it does make some sense - and it all boils down to the unavoidable truth of guitar parts in general.

"Pickups with staggered poles have been used, from 1954 until (on the whole) this morning, to make all the music we listen to"

And knowing that? We're basically at a weird point where we've got to admit "all we've ever heard" is music played on the Stratocaster, with pickups that had staggered poles. Its the sound we like. Nowadays, its actually a slight imbalance in the strings, but its something we've grown to love.

Sure, the staggering might have been designed for wound Gs, which we no longer use, sure, necks are, on the whole, flatter then they were in 1957, and allow us to get a much lower action, and the idea of a staggered pole doesn't make a great deal of sense any more, because we're not fighting the same problems we'd have faced the fifties.... but, that doesn't change the fact that our favourite new band, formed in 2019, who play guitars from that year, are all STILL playing pickups with staggered poles. Its just standard practise now, so, dont fight the tide - staggering is the norm, so stick with it, it might be wrong, but its sounds right!

The Exception
Flat necks!

Whilst i can sit here and say "staggering is wrong, but its the wrong we know" - it is still, on the whole, quite helpful! With either a 7 1/4" or a 9 1/2" radius neck being the standard on most models, the only thing thats "wrong", usually, is the G string - theres still enough of a curve in the neck to get the strings sitting far enough away from the pickups face to warrent having staggered poles.

But - when we get away from that? When we get into the world of 12" and 14" and Compound radius necks? We actually come out the other side of the problem. We're not capable of getting the strings so "flat" across the face of the pickup, that staggering is actually causing more of an inbalance in string volume then correcting it.

so, if your playing a guitar with a flatter radius neck - avoid staggering! (its also not a bad idea if your making a HSS or HSH setup either, because no one adjusts the poles on their humbuckers in the same way) - Non-staggered poles will give you more consistent results.

In summary
Warts and all replicas? vintage re-issues? Meet your hero guitars? Where your working with 7 1/4" radius necks? Those of us stubborn enough to still be buying wound Gs? Go for staggering!

Modern guitars based on old designs? 9 1/2" radius? 7 1/4" radius but not using wound Gs? Normal guitars? Your still wanting staggering!

Ultra flat necks? HSH and HSS setups? Super low action? Your probably going to want non-staggered.