 |
 |
 |
|
Main Description
The gold standard when it comes to guitar lever switches, Oak Grisby have been used on pretty much every Fender® Stratocaster® and Telecaster® since the early 80s (with the exception of some custom shop models, and prior to eightiers, there a CRL switch was used!)
In terms of functionality, the Oak Grisby and CRLs work exactly the same (and are infact, now owned by the same company either way), with both the 3 and 5 ways sporting 2 banks of terminals, each with 1 common and 3 inputs.
Be aware that the 5 way is the same, but the switch will connect inputs 1 and 2 in position 2, and 2 and 3 in position 4 - so on a Stratocaster®, giving that characteristic parallel wiring tone.
Oak Grisby switches are also available in the 4 way version (2 banks of 1 common, 4 inputs) which is a common modification for the Telecaster®, allowing the standard settings as well as a series wiring option.
And, to complicate matters even more - they now come in a 6 way version! This is EXACTLY the same as the 5 way version, in that it jams inputs in positions 2 and 4 - but you get an extra input on each bank, which, when in the 6th position, will jam signal with the 3rd positon. Depending on how you're using the switch, you can use it for a few different jobs, but the one that jumps out to us is as a Bridge + neck setting on Stratocaster® gutiars.
We supply these switches with both Dome Head and Recessed screws for mounting, and a wide range of tips for you to choose from if needed.
|
|
Fender®, Squier®, Stratocaster® and Telecaster® are registered trademarks of Fender Musical Instruments Corporation and Axesrus® has no affiliation with FMIC
The common problem!
Lever switches like these, whoever making them, have one main "pitfall" - because of the way they work, its possible to "flood" the terminals and cause the "jaws" where the wiper blade passes, so lose their "spring" (in worst cases, sealing them shut and blocking the path entirely)
In some cases, it'll mean a dead switch - everything will lock up tight when you hit the blockage, and you'll end up pulling the switch to pieces to clear it.
In less dramtic instances, you'll just drastically shorten the life of the switch.
Basically, the way these switches work is like this.
The wiper blade is moved through its path by the lever, it passes through a pinch point, which is under tension. And that tension is set by the length of the terminal. As the wiper blade passes through that pinch point, it pushes the split open, and stops (at the preset) within the pinch, making the connection.
If you increase that tension, by flooding the sprung section with solder, essentially, shortening the spring, then the wiper blade has to force its way into the pinch point.
So - if you've got a switch, and the solders flowed further then the very top of the terminal? Your on borrowed time with it! Simple as.
And, as such, switches that have been flooded, aren't covered by any sort of warrenty - its not a manufaturers fault, its an install error.
| | |
